Hong Kong Fashion Fest 2024: East Meets West: VIRTUOSE Showcases Couture’s New Frontier in Hong Kong
Fête Chinoise Exclusive: On the Ground in Hong Kong at the Inaugural Fashion Fest
Written by Deirdre Kelly
Photography: Deirdre Kelly and Hong Kong Fashion Fest
Last Monday evening, The Henderson—a new architectural marvel of steel and glass in Hong Kong’s Central district—became a vibrant stage for VIRTUOSE, an international couture showcase and the centrepiece of the inaugural Hong Kong Fashion Fest. Set against stunning 270-degree views of the city’s skyline, the event on Nov. 25 began with an intimate morning unveiling where the invited creators showcased their intricate collections, culminating in an evening celebration that highlighted artistry and cultural exchange.
Organized by the Hong Kong Fashion Designers Association (HKFDA), a pivotal force in the city’s fashion scene since 1984, this landmark couture event transcended a simple display; it fostered a dialogue among its featured couturiers—Charles de Vilmorin from France, Mohamed Benchellal from the Netherlands, Cheney Chan from mainland China and Kay Kwok from Hong Kong. Each presented a unique vision that reflected a rich array of influences celebrating both heritage and innovation.
Coco Rocha
The event drew international attention, with Canadian supermodel Coco Rocha opening Cheney Chan’s show. “The Hong Kong Fashion Fest was a fantastic celebration of creativity and innovation that brought together such a diverse range of talent from around the world,” Rocha told Fête Chinoise. Her long-standing relationship with Hong Kong and her experience at the event highlighted its ability to showcase global talent while celebrating the city’s unique fashion scene.
Bonita Cheung, mastermind behind Virtuose, and Kevin Leung, Hong Kong Fashion Designers Association Chairman
Bonita Cheung, the mastermind behind VIRTUOSE and a graduate of Toronto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson University), envisioned a platform where couture transcends cultural boundaries. “In this vibrant world of couture, we weave together diverse designers, united by an artistic language that transcends borders,” she said as part of her mission statement shared with the press. “Each garment tells a story, inviting viewers into a dialogue of culture and creativity—where fashion becomes poetry in motion.”
As the designers engaged with international media—including a select group of journalists flown in for the occasion—their insights illuminated the hallmarks of their craft and their contributions to this exceptional showcase. Here, we present an intimate look at each visionary, based on interviews with Fête Chinoise:
Charles de Vilmorin: The Prodigy
Charles de Vilmorin
At 28, Charles de Vilmorin is fashion’s latest wunderkind, his meteoric rise a testament to prodigious talent. A 2019 graduate of the École de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, de Vilmorin served as artistic director for two years at the esteemed French house of Rochas before launching his eponymous label in 2020. His designs, steeped in French couture traditions, embody avant-garde innovation.
His artistic DNA is as rich as his family’s botanical legacy, from his seed-company founding great-grandfather to his grandfather, Charles Henry Philippe Lévêque de Vilmorin, who made significant contributions to botany. This heritage is further enriched by his great-aunt, Louise de Vilmorin, a celebrated novelist whose avant-garde spirit echoes in his work.
At Hong Kong Fashion Fest, where de Vilmorin was one of only two international designers invited, he made his Asian debut by transforming the grand ballroom into a surrealist dreamscape.
Models posed and reclined amidst a collection that blurred the lines between fashion and performance art. Exaggerated silhouettes and theatrical elements evoked Tim Burton’s fantastical characters, while vegetal motifs paid homage to his family’s heritage. Standout pieces included feather-adorned dresses and an enormous black fringed chapeau, exemplifying de Vilmorin’s flair for the dramatic.“Drawing was my first language before I could even write,” de Vilmorin shared, a sentiment evident in every bold hue and surrealist flourish of his work.
Fashion’s elite quickly took notice of de Vilmorin’s talent. Within a year of launching his eponymous label, he garnered significant acclaim, including nominations for both the LVMH Prize and ANDAM, and becoming one of the nine finalists for the LVMH Prize in 2021. Jean Paul Gaultier played a pivotal role in de Vilmorin’s meteoric riser, sponsoring his entry into the official haute couture calendar. “It’s because of him that I was on the calendar,” de Vilmorin acknowledged. This recognition, coupled with praise from designers like Alessandro Michele of Gucci, solidified his position as a rising star in the fashion world.
Yet for de Vilmorin the goal transcends industry accolades. “I want to create pieces that resonate with people on a deeper level,” he said. As he continues to redefine contemporary couture, one thing is certain: the journey ahead promises to be thrilling.
Kay Kwok: The Visionary
Kay Kwok, Hong Kong’s avant-garde virtuoso now based in Shanghai, is redefining the boundaries of haute couture with a revolutionary blend of technology and tradition. A graduate of London College of Fashion and an alumnus of Alexander McQueen’s atelier, Kwok’s designs are a testament to his innovative spirit and cultural roots.
At the VIRTUOSE show, Kwok’s presentation was a dazzling display of costume innovation. Models adorned in his creations became living sculptures: a translucent lime green orb paired with a daring mini skirt; an oversized jacket with exaggerated shoulders embellished with brass paisley crescents; and a show-stopping brass tuba-like wraparound that demanded its own entourage. Amidst these fantastical pieces, a baggy pantsuit with a flowing white undershirt demonstrated Kwok’s versatility in crafting wearable art.
Kwok’s mastery of AI and 3D printing technology allows him to push the envelope of sustainable fashion while challenging gender norms. His work, infused with elements of Chinese mythology, invites a broader dialogue on identity and culture. “I want to foster a vibrant community around digital fashion,” Kwok said, his soft-spoken manner belying the boldness of his vision.
The designer’s innovative approach has caught the eye of pop royalty, with Beyoncé donning a custom piece from his “Chapter 2” collection during her 2024 “Renaissance Tour. “Seeing Beyoncé wear a custom piece was an incredible honour,” Kwok said, highlighting the symbiosis of fashion and performance art in his work.
Kay Kwok
As Kwok continues to merge the realms of technology, sustainability, and haute couture, he stands at the forefront of fashion’s future, crafting not just garments, but experiences that challenge, inspire, and transform.
Cheney Chan: The Heritage Artisan
In the international world of haute couture, Cheney Chan shines as a luminous bridge between East and West, his designs a testament to the timeless allure of Chinese artistry. At 34, this Beijing-born designer crafts pieces that are not mere garments, but living, breathing homages to his cultural heritage.
Chan’s journey through fashion’s landscape mirrors the intricate patterns of the porcelain that inspires him. After a decade immersed in ready-to-wear that left him creatively unfulfilled, he embraced couture two years ago. His signature ‘Feng Ya Qi’ silhouette—an ode to feminine grace—has become the cornerstone of his aesthetic, each piece a fluid sculpture celebrating the female form.
Cheney Chan
Valerie Baliuk
Chan’s growing status in the fashion world is underscored by the fact that Canada’s Coco Rocha opened his show in Hong Kong and wore his stunning spiral-cut silk gown—resembling a calla lily—at the 2024 Cannes Film Festival, significantly elevating his profile. “His designs seamlessly blend modernity with a deep respect for craftsmanship, which is something I really admire,” Rocha told Fête Chinoise.
This recognition from a global fashion icon aligns perfectly with Chan’s artistic vision. He aims to push the boundaries of traditional Chinese aesthetics in haute couture. “I want to explore meaningful elements of Chinese culture beyond traditional patterns,” Chan said, highlighting his desire to capture the essence of porcelain through diverse shapes and textures.
Participating in VIRTUOSE alongside international designers represents a meaningful opportunity for Chan to connect with a new generation of creatives and share his unique perspective on cultural exchange. “I think this is meaningful because we have many designers from Europe, and it’s a good chance to communicate with them and with a new generation,” Chan says, already looking ahead to his return to Paris Couture Week in 2025.
Cheney Chan
Mohamed Benchellal: The Serendipitous Sculptor
Defying convention at every turn, Mohamed Benchellal crafts haute couture that blurs the line between wearable art and fashion. This Amsterdam-based designer, with Moroccan roots that infuse his work with vibrant, larger-than-life energy, approaches his craft as a sculptor would—draping and moulding fabric into singular creations that celebrate the female form. “I don’t really have anything to sell,” Benchellal said, his words a stark contrast to the industry’s typical focus on commercialization. “The pieces that I make are all one of a kind. It’s really couture and showcase.” This dedication to uniqueness extends beyond his designs to his very approach to the fashion calendar.
Eschewing traditional runway shows, Benchellal’s creations have found homes in unexpected venues, including an exhibition at the National Museum of Qatar. At VIRTUOSE, he was the only designer of the four to do a static presentation, emphasizing his belief that the work itself is the focus, not the spectacle of a runway show.
Benchellal’s design process is as unconventional as his business model. Working exclusively with leftover fabrics, he allows serendipity to guide his creations. “Working in that way, challenging yourself that the amount of fabric you find actually dictates the outcome of the dress,” he explained. This sustainable approach not only reduces waste but also infuses each piece with a sense of destiny. “I think it’s just a little bit that the universe decides,” he added with a smile.
Mohamed Benchellal
The designer’s monochromatic palette is deliberate, drawing inspiration from classical sculpture. “I really see the sculptures and back in the day, the sculpture was always from marble and it was always one fabric,” Benchellal noted. This singular focus on form allows his intricate designs to speak volumes without the distraction of colour.
Benchellal’s journey into fashion was almost predestined. Growing up near his family’s fashion factory, the sound of industrial sewing machines became the soundtrack to his childhood. “I think something triggered me to try myself,” he said. “I actually cut almost all my clothing up just to put it back together and see if I could make it exactly as they made it in the factory.”
Today, Benchellal’s designs grace high-profile events, adorning notable figures such as Her Majesty Queen Maxima of the Netherlands, Her Majesty Queen Rania of Jordan and fashion icon Iris Apfel for her 100th birthday, cementing his status as a favourite among Hollywood stylists and international royalty alike.
Despite his growing fame, Benchellal remains grounded, finding joy in the intimate connections he forms with his clients. “When I design something for someone, they’re all these little friendships that start because it’s very intimate,” he shared. “You really get to see a person and their vulnerability and insecurity.”
As he made his debut in Asia at Hong Kong’s VIRTUOSE, Benchellal brought with him a fresh perspective on fashion and creativity. “I feel like creative-wise, Hong Kong has no limit,” he observed, his excitement palpable. “I’m very inspired to get to know more people, to learn from each other.”
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